Singapore – Slings, Sands and Seafood

Flying into Singapore from London in early February is like being swept from Kansas into Oz.  The snow was gently drifting down at Heathrow, then Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport, as I settled into my (fortunately and unusually) business class seat on the wonderful KLM airline.  There is something about flying from one time zone and climate to one that is so completely different that somehow befuddles the senses – particularly with a night flight where you can’t see the changing landscape outside the window, and time is blurred by sleep.

Singapore, though, is all I imagined and more.  As I write this I’ve been in the city for just 24 hours, and have experienced an almost mind-numbing variety of sensations – not least the surprise at a) how green this cosmopolitan city is,  b) how friendly and welcoming they are, without fail, and c) how hot it is.  My taxi driver from the airport was “born and bred” here in Singapore, though clearly of Indian heritage, and proudly informed me that 7% of the population here is Indian, 75% Chinese and surprisingly, given the geography, only 15% Malay or Indonesian.  He was proud of his city, proud of his heritage and delighted in telling me about some of the places I needed to visit.

My welcome at the Ritz-Carlton was just plain lovely.  As I got out of my taxi I was greeted by name – how did they do that?! – and personally escorted to the 32nd floor to check in (I was booked into the Club Level – lots of perks and probably cheaper in the long run).  After a double take at the view on the lift landing, I was escorted to the Club Lounge – where I suspect I will spend a lot of time this week.  While they took my passport and did all the necessary things I was given a glass of Moet and the opportunity to sit and drink in the view – which frankly, is stunning.  The RC overlooks the Marina Bay area, with the extraordinary Marina Bay Sands resort hotel, complete with bars, cafes and infinity pool, the lotus shaped Art and Science Museum, and the Gardens by the Bay.

After freshening up (shower big enough for three people) I returned to the Lounge for some dinner – excellent chicken and rice provided by the “live” chef – and my first Singapore Sling – something that may well become a theme of my time here, as it was delicious.  I had mentioned to one of the staff that I plan to visit Raffles for a Singapore Sling, only to be told that “our Slings are much better”.  I suspect the price here might be better too, particularly in the all-inclusive club lounge, but Raffles is still on my list for this week.

The day I arrived – 11th February – was the Chingay parade, the largest street performance and float parade in Asia.  I was able to watch some of it from the comfort of my room, with a Kallang (City) view, and was treated to a splendid firework display.  Obviously they knew I was coming and it was put on especially for me :).  The focus of the parade appeared to be the F1 stands that could be seen clearly from my window – the start/finish line for the F1 race in September, but for Chingay filled with crowds cheering and clearly enjoying every moment of the show.  I’m told that the 12th – today – is the final day of Chinese New Year (I like the idea of New Year lasting 15 days, having celebrated a little in Chinatown in London a fortnight ago), and that there will be more fireworks tonight.  Without planning it I appeared to have arrived at an exciting time!.

Earlier today I took the advice of my friendly cab driver and visited Little India.  Given that my impressions of Singapore so far are based entirely on tall buildings and lots of green, Little India was quite different and a new assault on the senses.  I was dropped at Mustafa’s – apparently the “must go” place to shop – and considerably different from all the other shopping experiences available in Singapore – where I wandered around a large, Indian style department store, restricting my purchases to a small digital camera (having left mine at home) and a notebook.  For fabrics and Indian style food Mustafa’s is amazing, and is open 24hrs.  Having read reviews I was pleased it wasn’t too busy – the aisles are narrow and absolutely crammed with “stuff” of all kinds.  Mustafa’s reminds me very much of a similar mall in Kuala Lumpur – though much more organised and navigable.

On leaving Mustafa’s I wandered back through Little India, along the main road, which, like Delhi, is full of small shops, selling everything from SIM cards to Gold bangles.  Every so often you see a man with a sewing machine, altering garments for customers while they wait, and everywhere is colour and sound and smell.  It really feels like walking into yet another country.  My favourite site was the umbrella garden, a cool, green area among the tight streets and cramped houses, with umbrellas apparently growing on the trees.

By now it was lunchtime, and since this is Singapore and the rainy season, it’s very hot and very humid.  Having wandered through a maze of streets and avoided spending any more money, I admitted defeat and hailed a passing taxi to return to the air conditioned splendour of the Ritz.  En route I caught my first view of Raffles – an elegant, colonial masterpiece in among the modern buildings that make up most of this part of the city.  My cab driver – another pleasant chap – allowed me to stop and take photos – for today, at least, I am a tourist.